Shooting in digital RAW vs JPEG allows you to preserve all of the original image information, which means it also gives you a much larger 12-bit photo compared to compressed JPEGs. Choose the RAW (or RAW + JPEG) Image File Format They’re usually labeled as “Large”, “Medium” and “Small”, or “High”, “Medium” and “Low” within the camera menu, depending on the model and brand of your camera. Image via Shutterstock Select the Highest Resolution and Quality Settingįor astrophotography, it’s always ideal to pick the highest optical resolution and quality possible. f/1.4 letting in around 200% of the light at f/2). If it doesn’t, you may want to consider getting one that’s much faster! You’ll be surprised how just a few stops can make a huge difference in terms of image brightness (i.e. Use apertures like f/2.8 or bigger, depending on what your lens allows. Since it’s very important to let as much light in as possible when shooting dark skies, it’s crucial that you really open up your aperture. After all, you’ll be adjusting your astrophotography exposure settings manually. In case you used auto exposure beforehand or allowed somebody to use your camera, make sure your exposure compensation is set to 0. This also explains why shooting night skies requires more advanced photography skills and camera know-how. Image via Shutterstock Set Camera Dial to Manual Exposure ModeĪstrophotography involves taking long exposure shots at night, which means adjusting different manual camera settings that include the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and many others. Turn In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction OFF.Choose the RAW (or RAW + JPEG) Image File Format.Select the Highest Resolution and Quality Setting.Set Camera Dial to Manual Exposure Mode.Most of these should already be familiar to you, but we’ll also explain it in detail below. These are basic camera settings usually set with controls on the outside of your camera, but they can also be set in menus. Once you’re ready to start shooting, dial in these recommended camera settings. It should have a pretty good view of the night sky that’s ideally pitch black and far away from the light pollution of the city. Hence many beginners start out with a Dobson telescope, which uses a very, very simple yet sturdy mount.Before anything, you’ll want to choose a good spot for your camera and an ideal tripod for astrophotography. A mount that fits the telescope easily is as expensive as the optical tube assembly itself. But you can later invest more money in good eyepieces, which you can re-use on better telescopes which you may buy later on.Įdit: One more thing - the telescope mount is equally important as are the eyepieces and the telescope itself. That's a good allrounder, even though planets will appear rather small with the 10mm eyepiece. I personally started with a 750mm Newtonian with 150mm aperture and 25mm and 10mm eyepieces. Good 5mm eyepieces can cost 100 USD and up. Note: the shorter the eyepiece focal length, the more difficult it is to build. when you have a 400mm focal length telescope and use a 10mm eyepiece, you get 400mm/10mm = 40x magnification. The magnification is created by the eyepiece. for 60mm a 120x magnification is the absolute maximum which still is feasible. Maximum resolution: Rule of thumb is that you can do aperture in mm times two as maximum magnification.Light sensitvity: The larger the aperture, the more light you can collect.Note that 60 and 70mm aperture are still very small for telescopes! The aperture influences two things: Orion nebula, other large emission or reflective nebulae (e.g. The second most important thing is: What size are the objects you want to look at: Small objects need long focal lengths and high magnifications, large objects need short aperture for low magnifications. There is one rule that is generally true for all deep sky objects (nebulae, stars, galaxies.): Aperture matters!įor solar system objects, aperture is not that important.
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